By John Woodmansee
Agriculture/Natural Resources Extension Educator, Purdue Extension Whitley County

John Woodmansee

COLUMBIA CITY — In Indiana, pastures are generally, but not always, relegated to land that is too steep and rocky for row crops.

The soils tend to be shallow, low in fertility, and droughty. The dominant plant species are often Kentucky bluegrass, endophyte-infected tall fescue and weeds. The result of this combination of conditions is usually low yields of low-quality forage.

Purdue Extension experts have said in a similarly titled publication that one of the best ways to improve both forage yield and animal performance on these low-producing grass pastures is to periodically renovate them.

Pasture renovation means “renewing” a pasture by the introduction of desired forage species into present plant stands. It usually involves partially destroying the sod, liming and fertilizing according to soil test, seeding a legume or legume-grass mixture and controlling weeds.

Historically, it has been said that pasture renovation or hay field seeding can be done in the fall. Technically, that is incorrect. “August is the month, the second opportunity of seeding cool season grasses and legumes,” said Purdue Extension forage specialist, now retired, Dr. Keith Johnson.

Over-seeding pastures in very late winter or establishing new cool-season grass/legume stands by May first are other dates to consider. “I despise the words ‘fall planting’ because that infers that one could be planting successfully perennial legumes after Sept. 21, which is the fall start date,” Johnson said. He added that seeding is preferably done by mid-August in the upper counties of the state for adequate establishment before freezing temperatures arrive in the fall.

To fulfill the above requirements for establishing and maintaining a good legume stand, the following steps are suggested by the Purdue Extension authors:

• Overgrazing and soil testing. In this instance, livestock should be allowed to overgraze the pasture so that tillage is more effective at tearing the sod. Even if tillage is not done, the grass should be overgrazed so the mulch will not interfere with legume establishment. The soil should be tested, then limed and fertilized according to test results, preferably before tillage. Do not apply nitrogen since that will only promote grass growth and retard legume establishment.
• Disturbing or suppressing the sod. If erosion is not a hazard, disk or field-cultivate to disturb the grass sod. To minimize soil loss, do not overwork the seedbed. The sod should be disturbed 50-70% if seeding red or white clovers and 80-90% if seeding alfalfa and birdsfoot trefoil. It is not necessary to reseed the grass, since the undisturbed tillers will begin to grow the following spring.