Spices Used in Cooking Indian Food Photo provided by Biryani

By Shari Benyousky
Guest Columnist

Column Note: Banter is a new semi-regular column written by Guest Columnist Shari Benyousky of Diners and Dives.

“Most people call me K.” K adjusted his cap as we sat down in the alley outside Biryani under the shade of the blue sails above. K stands for Karthik, and Karthik is one of the two faces of Biryani Kitchen across from Le Troje at 114 S. Buffalo Street in Warsaw. The other owner you often see in the kitchen is Siva.

Siva began Biryani in 2019, right before COVID. “It wasn’t perfect timing,” K lamented. “But, surprisingly, we pushed through the challenges with incredible people support. I was skeptical but we’ve been blessed by this community.”

K moved to Warsaw to help his friend Siva with the restaurant. He had been a project manager with United Health, traveling all around the world. “I wanted to try something new, and Siva said come join us, and I did.” K graduated from Purdue but has lived from California to New Jersey to Minneapolis. “Bears, boundary waters, and mosquitoes!” he laughed.

‘So, you started in Indiana?’ I Asked.

Karthik Talks with me in the Alley

“My family is from Fort Wayne.” K checked his watch to see when the lunch door had to be unlocked. “Me and my friends all said we would never come back to Indiana. But, as fate would have it, here I am, and I have no complaints. I’m the happiest I’ve ever been here in Warsaw!”

‘Were You A Chef?’

“Well, no!” K chuckled. “I had to learn the restaurant ropes, but my project skills come in handy. We have incredible staff, and they taught me. I was a sponge. I still mostly do prep work, though.” He waved towards the back Biryani door. “Siva is the main guy behind us. He supports and guides us. I constantly lean on him even though I have free rein.”

‘So How Did Biryani Come To Be A Participant In Le Diner En Blanc Next Week?’

On the evening of Thursday, June 12, Downtown Warsaw will be set up with long, white covered tables. Diners dressed all in white will converge on the tables to eat communally and celebrate with thousands of others doing the same thing in cities around the globe. Biryani is one of four Warsaw restaurants offering special menus that evening. Tickets are sold here.

K contemplated the art above his head in the alley display. “The Chamber of Commerce reached out with the idea for getting more foot traffic in downtown. We will do anything to support our community.”

‘Do You Have A Menu?’

Outdoor seating in the Alley

“A great menu!” K enthused. “We will serve fan favorites with both vegetarian and meat options, including gobi and chicken fries, sag paneer, butter chicken, Kurma, garlic naan, and a dessert called Gulab Jamun. It’s a little like donut holes in syrup.” Biryani is a fusion of both North and South Indian specialty foods.

‘What’s The Difference Between Northern And Southern Styles?’

K thought for a moment. “North tends to be lighter because it includes dairy and cream, while the South has browner sauces. The north has more curries. For Le Diner En Blanc we will have very mild tastes, although a diner could ask for things to be spiced up.”

‘What’s Something New Coming To Biryani That You Want To Tell People?’

K lit up. “We’ve been approved for a liquor license launching next month. We will have beer and wine with a focus on Indian varieties and good pairings.” Biryani sits within the DORA or Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area of Warsaw Downtown as well.

The clock signaled lunchtime, and we shook hands with my mouth watering for some of the foods he had described. As I left Biryani, two things were clear: K’s passion for Biryani is rivalled only by his love for our community, and Warsaw is lucky to have both.

Come out and support Downtown Warsaw and Biryani on June 12.

Do you know of an interesting place, restaurant, nonprofit, or person that you’d like to see featured in Diners and Dives or Banter? Send Shari Benyousky of SB Communications LLC an email at [email protected].