Text and Photo
By Shari Benyousky
Guest Columnist

Column Note: In the 55th column in the Diners and Dives series, a small group of Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club members explore the restaurants of Kosciusko and the surrounding area.

Where Is the Grill?

If you’ve been a local for a minute, you’ll remember the giant metal chicken on top of the restaurant which is why locals still call it The Chicken as in: “Let’s get lunch at The Chicken.” Lakes Grill Restaurant is located south of Warsaw at 9665 S. SR 15 just north of Silver Lake.

Adam Heckaman’s grandfather built the original restaurant on the site in the late 50s. Back then, it was called “The Igloo.” And, yes, the current ice-cream shop, the Igloo in downtown Silver Lake, is a nod to the past. Adam sent me a picture of the original menu board with hamburgers for 60 cents and cones for 25-35 cents.

The Usual

“Do you want the usual?” Waitress Nikki asked Kerlin Motor President and Co-Owner Rick Kerlin, her notepad and pen poised.

He nodded.

Oddly enough, another wildcard guest, Adam Heckaman who is the president of nearby Splendor Boats, also had his own “usual.” Here’s the twist: both usuals turned out to be the same thing — grilled chicken breast with a side of glorious-looking fruit.

Adam, as a runner in training for the Indy Mini half-marathon, was focused on getting lean protein. Rick said he loves the plate because it’s delicious and low-calorie.

The other four of us have different ideas about our usuals. Consultant Kris Williams chose the biscuit and gravy omelet, which turned out to be an omelet folded over biscuits crowned with gravy and accompanied by toast triangles.

“What kind of jelly do you want?” Nikki asked Kris.

“I mean, those little packets are really just different colors to provide a layer of sugar for your toast?” Kris shrugged and used the grape.

Realtor Jeff Owens went for the comfort food — the daily bacon and gravy special with a side of house-made salsa. I threw caution to the wind with an enormous tenderloin and a heap of battered fries. And third wildcard Brad Johnson, director of process controls for Dilling Group, went for the patty melt and fries. We share the knowing glance of true French fry aficionados.

Brad said wryly, “If they ever made fries illegal, I’d lose 30 pounds easy.”

Deep Roots And Small-Town Service

All three wildcard guests have deep roots in the area and all three are Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club Members along with Jeff, Kris, and me.

Adam pointed down nearby W CR 950 S. “I was born 1 ½ miles down that road there.” Adam has served on the Tippecanoe Valley Board of Education for many years.

Rick is a third generation local resident. Kerlin Motors was started by his grandfather Russ Kerlin with the iconic black Ford Model-T in 1927. Kerlin now has dealers for trailers, tractors, and buses too. The company is now 97 years old and prides itself on providing excellent customer service. Rick mentioned that his business neighbor Adam’s Splendor Boat has a reputation too.

“If I’m going to buy a boat, it’s going to be the kind that Adam sells because of his great customer service,” Rick gestured with a square of watermelon on his fork.

Brad Johnson serves as a member of the Warsaw School Board for District 7. His family first moved to Warsaw in 1975 and he graduated from the “new” Warsaw High School in 1990. After completing his time in the U.S. Navy, he and his family returned to the Claypool area in 1998.

Running Conversations

As I wrestled with my enormous tenderloin, my pen, and my notepad, the conversation turned to the Optimist Triathlon coming in June which we all volunteer at to raise money for local kids. Heckaman has served as one of the race’s chairs for several years. “But can I also run it this year, do you think?” he asked Jeff Owens, his eyes hopeful.

“If we get to 300 registered participants, you can run.” Owens pulled up the triathlon information on his phone. “Nope, we don’t have that many yet.”

Here’s where YOU come in. Do you want to help get 300 registered Triathlon runners, so Heckaman can run? Register for the June 22 event here asap. And remember that the event is known by past participants as providing the best post-race food ever.

“Running can be addictive.” Heckaman cut wedges of pineapple.

“What’s training like?” I ate another three fries happily. “I mean, how does one plan training for a mini marathon?”

Adam pursed his lips. “Actually, training can be totally miserable.” He ate his side of cottage cheese. “More protein.”

I’ll leave it to you triathlon runners, swimmers, and bikers to decide if running is a torrent of misery or a ripple of bliss. Either way, some of us will be there on June 22 in Winona Lake to help you run, swim, bike, and EAT.

A Surprising Destination For The Conversation

A strange fact emerged as we ate lunch at a diner in the middle of cornfields. Half of the table, three of six, discovered that they had all made multiple trips abroad, specifically to China. Despite our small-town roots here in Kosciusko, we have global reach even if we struggle with global foods.

As we munched through our daily diner specials and giant plates of food, Heckaman described visits to China to study fiberglass for his boat company. “But I’m a steak and potatoes kind of guy only.” He discussed navigating global culinary waters. “Basically, I ended up eating mostly white rice and Tang.”

Consultant Kris Williams described his own visits to China with a colleague who “Brought like two suitcases full of stuff like Little Debbie’s to eat.” He laughed. “Me, I’ll try anything though.”

Brad Johnson had also been on several China trips and described how he discovered that chicken feet are a delicacy. Brad works in process control and so he sees how food is put together behind the scenes.

“You are aware of what’s in sausage, right?” Realtor Jeff Owens quipped, picking up his house-made sweet tea.

Curious, I asked Heckaman about the strangest food he had ever eaten. “Oysters?” He made a face. “The fried ones are OK.”

He sighed. “Basically, THIS boat guy doesn’t do seafood.” The table laughed.

As we paid (credit cards are ok), we vowed to return for pie and desserts, but on this day, we were all too full to attempt it. After enjoying the company and learning about how our members make the community stronger and better, we returned to Warsaw. If you’re up for a 20-minute road trip to a diner with a storied past, give Lake Grill Restaurant a try and say hello to Nikki.

TIP: New Batch Of Diners And Dives T-Shirts Available

Diners and Dives T-shirts are available for a limited time by stopping by The Papers Office at 114 W. Market St., in Warsaw. They are only $10, and proceeds will benefit the Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club Foundation Scholarship Fund. You can send pictures of yourselves wearing the shirts to the new InkFreeNews Diners and Dives Facebook tab for posting.

Do you know of an interesting place, restaurant, nonprofit, or person that you’d like to see featured in Diners and Dives, Whirlwind Wanderlust Travels, or Profiles Behind the Scenes? Send SB Communications LLC Shari Benyousky an email at [email protected].