Diana delivers lunch.

Text and Photos
By Shari Benyousky
Guest Columnist

Column Note: This is the 18th column in the Dives and Diners series in which a small group of Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club members and their guests road trip to explore the diners and dives of Kosciusko and the surrounding area.

“What’s it called?” I asked when someone recommended that restaurant out at Rozella Ford Golf Course. That restaurant has had many names through the years. In fact, if you walk into the eastern door, you’ll still see a sign saying El Faro, the last restaurant.

But the new name, Empireo, suits the food and the view just fine. Empireo means heaven or sky, and sitting in the restaurant with its enormous glass windows gives an excellent view of both the golf course and the big sky at 1700 Rozella Ford Road in Warsaw.

“But I don’t play golf,” Titus Funeral Planner Britanny Lyon said as she pulled out a chair. I had chosen the round table in the back corner with worn but comfortable round seats. Later the waitress Diana told me it was her least favorite table as it was difficult to serve the corner people well.

The Wildcards

Merna shows off her purple hair and the menu.

“Me either,” rejoined one of our wildcards, Merna Eisenbraun, retired owner of Canal Street Gallery in Winona Lake. We had invited Merna and her husband Jim, retired publisher of Eisenbraun’s Publishing, to join us.

Jim defined retirement as: “No longer working. Enjoying living off the government for once. It took me 10 years to sell my publishing business, and now I’m enjoying doing all the other things we love.” The Eisenbrauns love to travel and bird-watch. He ruminated for a moment: “History is full of little windows. We feel we’ve been lucky in hitting the right ones.” If you’d like to take a look at the 460 books Eisenbraun’s published, they are now owned as an imprint by Penn State University Press. “I still have a copy of every single one in my library,” Jim said proudly.

Merna showed off her purple hair and her leg boot. “Tendon surgery,” she informed us. “ALL of them. I read a lot of books these days. Three in the last three days.”

“So, you gauge your recovery by how many novels?” I asked. She smiled.

Waitress Diana asked if we wanted to order off the lunch or dinner menu. Both were available at noon on a Thursday. Diana was quick and efficient. She took care of us plus the other several tables full by herself. As she delivered our diet cokes and waters, our third wildcard (also an Optimist member) Brooke Hamstra joined us. “Sorry I’m late guys!” she grinned. “I had to deal with a small parenting issue.” Parenting issues are hot topics when we commiserate. Brooke has 11-year-old twins.

Jim Eisebraun received a ASOR Special Service award 2017. Photo from ASOR.org.

“That’s sombering. Or is it sobering?” Brooke mused. “Both. The boys are just at the age where they’re deciding if hugging is still cool.”

“Now until like age 26,” I agreed. “Tough on Mom and Dad.”

Merna agreed. “But they’ll come back around. Around age 26. And then when they get to 40, they’ll even appreciate you again.”

REMAX Realtor Jeff raised his eyes to the ceiling. “My grandfather had a weird saying. He would say, ‘You make my ass so tired” and I always thought it was just weird until I had my own kids. So many times I’ve said, ‘Sorry. I get it now, up towards heaven’” he laughed.

The Food

Diana returned with our food. “Look at these baby taco salad bowls!” Brittany clapped. “They’re so cute!”

Chimichanga

My fajitas came on the traditional cast-iron platter with all the fixings. Brooke’s large taco salad was so good that: “I’m eating the bowl too if that tells you how good,” she said with a crunch.

The Nicknames

Jim, we will call him JIMI-BOOKS-69 now after his email choice, took a bite of his Chiles Rellenos. “Very good,” he proclaimed.

“Why 69?” I inquired.

“We were married in 1969!” Merna told us. “And Jimi is a huge fan of Jimi Hendrix.”

“Woodstock!” REMAX Jeff exclaimed.

“We didn’t get there though,” Jimi Books 69 said sadly.

“But what shall we call Merna?” I asked as I tried to balance eating from the many plates of fajitas along with my reporter’s notebook.

“Just not Shorty, please,” Merna said. “I am an artist still.”

“I CAN call her NOT-SHORTY-PLEASE-MERNA?” I laughed. “But Artist Merna sounds easier.”

“Merna hates retail,” JIMI-BOOKS-69 told us. “She supports local shops.”

The Artist

Mernas handmade journal at the Beaded Peacock.

“I still have things at the Beaded Peacock in Winona!” Merna showed us the gorgeous purple necklace she had on. “I made this too. And some quilt hangings with 1,000 pieces.”

When I left Empireo, I stopped over at the Shops in Winona to take some pictures of Merna’s things. Shout out to Lauren Peacock at The Beaded Peacock for showing me Merna’s things.

“Lots of tiny quilt pieces like a kaleidoscope,” Brooke exclaimed. “We could call her Kaleidoscope Merna too.”

The Duchess

“What about YOU?” I asked Brooke. “Do you have a nickname? You work at Helvey’s right?”

“Well, my husband’s nickname has always been Dutch from his friends,” Brooke said. “But I don’t have a nickname. I told his friends that the obvious nickname for me as his wife would be Duchess, duh, right? But they didn’t buy it.”

“I can call you DUCHESS-DUH if you like.” I scribbled.

Merna’s handbeaded jewelry for sale at The Beaded Peacock.

REMAX Jeff liked Duchess. “And then, when your twins are old enough, they can be DOUBLE DUTCH!”

Empireo was comfortable and we had a great time there. The food was solid, and the staff was friendly and competent. There are large screen TVs on the walls, sparkling chains of lights decorating the bar, and upbeat music which isn’t too loud to have a conversation.

On our way out, we ran into brothers Dan and Steve Sands who love the place as well. They put in a shout out for Big Boss BBQ. Perhaps we will expand the meaning of diners and dives (again) soon. Until then, you too can enjoy the view of people golfing and revving up their golf carts. We recommend a visit to the big sky at Empireo.

Know of an interesting place, restaurant, nonprofit, or person which you’d like to see featured in Dives and Diners or in Profiles behind the scenes someday? Send SB Communications LLC an email at [email protected].