By AMY MUNCY
Master Gardener

Amy Muncy

WARSAW — We will start with the type of worm to use for vermicomposting. These are not the usual big burrowing earthworms that live in garden soil. Here are some of the names used … red worms, tiger worms, brandlings, angle worms, manure worms or red wrigglers. They occupy a different ecological niche, because they live near the surface where there are high concentrations of organic matter such as pastures, in leaf mould, or under compost piles.

Two breeds are used in vermicomposting: Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellas. Many garden centers now supply them and in most countries they can be bought by mail order from worm farms. Some sellers advertise special high-performance breeds or specially developed hybrids. Frankly, there’s no such thing as a hybrid worm. They will be one of the two breeds above. Or you can buy red wrigglers from a bait shop. Although these worms may not be as healthy as from a worm farm, they should do fine.

You’ll need 1,000 worms (1 pound) to start a worm box, maybe twice that if you want to process your garden wastes too — they breed very fast in the right conditions, but starting with more will give the system a good start.

There’s a good range of specialized worm composting units that you can buy: Can-O-Worms, Worm Factory, Worm-a-way, Eliminator, Worm-A-Roo, Tiger Wormery and others — you’ll find details at Vermicomposting resources. Or you can easily build one for yourself. In fact many people say that wood is better than plastic. The commercial models are usually made of plastic, which doesn’t “breathe,” while wood is porous and allows for better ventilation. Although, keep in mind where the bin would be kept, and the size of the unit should be geared to your household’s production of kitchen scraps.

One or two people usually produce about 4 pounds of food waste a week. Therefore, use a 2-foot by 2-foot box, 8 inches deep. For three people make it 12 inches deep, for more, 2-foot by 3-foot by 12 inches deep — or two two-person boxes might be better, because bigger boxes can be too heavy to move when they’re full.

Don’t use chemically treated wood to build with. It would do best if you painted the wood with vegetable oil or linseed oil. Galvanized nails are the best to use. Drill at least six or more one-half inch holes in the bottom for aeration. Set the box on some kind of a tray with rocks/bricks on the tray to lift the box up off the surface. Try not to block any of the air holes. There may be some water leakage, but this is normal.

Fill the box with moist bedding for the worms to burrow in and to bury the food scraps in. You need about 6 pounds (dry weight) for a 2-foot by 2-foot by 8-inch box. Worms will eat the bedding as well as the food scraps. So you’ll need to top it off in a few months.

Worm Bin

Once the box is filled, cover the surface with black plastic (a garbage bag) slightly smaller than the surface area: this will keep the moisture in, and the worms will work right up to the surface. This may make it too wet, so use a couple of newspapers instead. Make a lid for the box. Keep it anywhere convenient.

Next time there will be more information to share about vermicomposting. Such as how to harvest the soil and tea uses. So stay posted.

Amy Muncy was born in Wabash County and lived there for close to 40 years. Muncy grew up in the country, has always enjoyed gardening and mowing the lawn. She has been gardening since a small girl. She moved to Kosciusko County in 2000. She is a master gardener intern at this point, but will be a full master gardener before long.